The best time to practice teaching your dog to heel is before you’ve begun going on walks. Your dog is easily distracted out on the street and you will need his attention to properly teach the heel command. Also, you want to be in a patient and pleasant mood. Do not begin this, or any other dog training session, if you are angry or in a testy mood. You should not train your dog in an unkind or rough manner. Furthermore, it is best to teach the heel command after your dog knows his name and the "Sit" command.

You will want to limit the heel training session, as with other dog training sessions, especially for young puppies to about 10 or 15 minutes and to 2 or 3 times in a day. Make sure they’ve gone to the bathroom and have eaten and had some water. You want their full attention for this.

For this training session, you might want to use a dog training collar, but it is not necessary. In the backyard or garden put a lead on the dog, and keep him on your left side. Hold the leash in both hands, your right hand through the loop and your left hand holding the leash with your elbow by your side and out straight.

You want to keep your dog’s neck about even with your left leg, and as you begin to move that is the signal for the dog to begin walking. Your dog or puppy will initially not understand what to do and either try to run ahead or around. Simply make gentle corrections, say "Heel" and keep them on your left side. Try to keep the lead slack and if your dog begins to tug on it either stop or gently correct with the leash and stop moving. Do not pull your dog forward or yank the leash back violently. Continue moving only as your dog is on your left side. Try not to move if the leash becomes tight as this teaches them to tug and pull on it.

You will want to vary your direction and speed, turning in circles or doing figure eights. As your dog goes in the correct direction on your left side, remember to give lots of praise. You might use a dog training clicker or a treat, but try to keep your methods consistent with other dog training commands you use. Try to end the dog training session on a positive note with something the dog has done correctly, followed by lots of praise.

Dog Training HQ provides dog training articles and resources to help dog and puppy owners learn to train their pet effectively. Please visit http://www.dogtraininghq.com for more helpful dog training and puppy training advice.

Bookmark to:

The most interesting thing I found out was that vaccinations seem to be a main cause of seizures in dogs, and annual vaccinations are not necessary, possibly causing more harm than good. After that incident, we stopped vaccinating and the seizures became less and less. I’m going to tell you how it’s in both your and your pet’s best interest to avoid yearly vaccinations. Annual re-vaccination is simply not necessary.

Here is an excerpt from page 205 of Current Veterinary Therapy XI, a reference considered to be the premier resource for the entire veterinary field.

"A practice that was started many years ago and that lacks scientific validity or verification is annual revaccinations. ALMOST WITHOUT EXCEPTION THERE IS NO IMMUNOLOGIC REQUIREMENT FOR ANNUAL REVACCINATION. Immunity to viruses persists for years or for the life of the animal."

If you’re concerned about not vaccinating yearly, you can get proof of immunity even years after the shot, by a blood test called a titer. Many veterinarians, especially holistic vets, will provide these tests. See http:// www.AlternativesForAnimals.com for a directory of holistic vets.

Overvaccination can even cause more harm than good. This is something that almost all holistic vets agree upon, and some of the top vets in the country attribute many health problems to vaccines.

Dr. Richard Pitcairn, a holistic pioneer and well respected vet who researched immunology extensively, believes that the biggest factor contributing to epilepsy in dogs is yearly vaccinations. (1) Many seizures happen within a few weeks of dogs getting their shots.

According to this theory that overvaccination causes harm, vaccines work with immunity, and overvaccination weakens the immune system. This in turn causes auto-immune problems in cats and dogs like skin problems, hair loss, tumors, and arthritis. A weakened immune system leaves your pet open to all kinds of potential health problems. (2)

Why do almost all conventional vets recommend yearly vaccinations? It’s been the industry standard. According to veterinarian Dr. Carolyn Blakey, it accounts for up to 80% of a vet’s business. To recommend less frequent vaccination, vet businesses would take a big financial blow.

If it concerns you to avoid vaccinations, are there any alternatives? There are a couple options. Some holistic vets follow a modified program of vaccinations, giving them at less frequent intervals.

Another option is homeopathic. Homeopathic nosodes are a remedy administered to pets that are believed to assist in disease prevention. Nosodes are made from the actual virus, just like a vaccine, but are made differently and are totally safe.

According to Donna Starita, DVM, a leading homeopathic vet, many studies show homeopathic nosodes to be just as effective or more so than conventional vaccines in preventing disease. (3)

Some breeders, such as author Celeste Yarnall, Ph.D., that are interested in more natural methods use exclusively nosodes in place of regular shots. They swear by it’s effectiveness and they say their animals are much healthier than earlier generations that got shots. (4)

So, it’s OK to question the necessity of yearly pet vaccinations, with their questionable necessity and potential adverse effects on your pet’s health. This is the beginning of this movement, and over the coming years, it’s my opinion that we’ll probably see more movement away from such frequent vaccination. Some veterinary schools are already changing their curriculum to advocate changes in vaccination frequency. In the end, it will save us all money, and we’ll have healthier pets.

So next time you get that little reminder card in the mail that your pet is due for their shots, think twice! And switch your pet’s care to a vet that is more careful about the use of vaccines.

See http://www.AlternativesForAnimals.com for a FREE online directory of holistic vets.

Sources: (1) Natural Health for Dogs & Cats by Pitcairn & Pitcairn (2) The Natural Remedy Book for Dogs & Cats by Diane Stein with excerpt by John Fudens, DVM (3) The Dangers of Vaccinations, and the Advantages of Nosodes for Diseases Prevention by Dr. Donna Starita Mehan (4) Cat Care, Naturally! by Celeste Yarnall

Angela M. Predhomme is the owner and creator of the online holistic pet directory, Alternatives for Animals, http://www.alternativesforanimals.com. Click on this link to find holistic vets and practitioners using alternative medicine for pets, as well as a directory of natural pet products.

Bookmark to:

Why should we get a kitten then? Well, for one thing, they are cute and adorable and are less active as compared to dogs. They recognize us as their masters but do not overly show their enthusiasm like dogs. That’s why they make you work for their affection all the time, instead of the other way around.

Kittens are small in size and therefore easy to carry around. This makes it easy for you to take your cat around in your car or when you need to take your cat with you outside. However, cats and kittens have tendencies to seek ways to escape from your home and therefore this may prove to a problem if your cat keeps trying to make its way out of your house. With this, many owners let their cats roam in and out of their houses, and most of the time, their pets return home on time for dinner. Sometimes, they even bring home their own prey for dinner.

Kittens and cats bury their own waste in the sand box, so that you don’t have to take after them, unlike dogs. They can be trained to use the sand box which you just need to have a change of sand once in a while. On the other hand, kittens also each much less than dogs, and therefore cost less in maintenance. They are usually non-aggressive, and will be less likely to bite anyone. However, they may get irritated with human behavior and sometimes may want to be left alone. With this, they can scratch with their sharp claws if they are not happy.

Kittens can’t be trained be trained. They just won’t listen. That is why you will not need to send your cat to cat school to be trained. This will also mean that you don’t have to spend money getting your cat trained. Cats and kittens also do not bark and therefore are suitable for apartment or condominiums where they won’t even wake up the neighbours.

One thing about cats is their nature to wander around their neighborhood which may get them into trouble sometimes. With this, they may get knocked down by a car or be involved in accidents. Apart from this, cats also can get sick, especially when they wander outside and eat material from outside the home. You will then need to pay for your cat’s medical bills, although it will not cost you as much if you were to have a dog.

Finally, kittens do not need you to exercise them like dogs. They don’t need to be taken out for walks and they don’t make demands on you as well. They live their own lives, but do need to be pat once in a while. If you are a cat person, you will definitely understand them! Look at the adorable cute little kittens and cats!

Mary Majorda of California has lived along with kittens since as long as she can remember. She got her 1st kitten at the age of 2 as a birthday gift from her dad and since then she hasn’t parted from cats and kittens. Besides having a family of a husband, 2 kids and 4 kittens, her love for them has pursued her to become a vet.

Bookmark to:

On one hand, in the last 20 years few could deny that vaccinations as they are administered now have been quite effective. I mean, when was the last time anyone’s seen Old Yeller limping down the street, foaming at the mouth, requiring the talents of the local sharp-shooter, Atticus Finch, to protect the panicking townspeople? I’m mixing my movie metaphors, but the point is these films with rabid dog scenes are set in decades past, and since then, rabies, and other diseases like parvovirus and distemper, have been successfully prevented in vaccinated American pets.

Vaccination Concerns Leading to New Trends

In recent years, the current trends in canine immunization and boosters have come under much scrutiny. With new vaccines becoming available with increasing frequency, and with more and more vaccines being given in combination within a single injection, many pet owners and veterinary professionals are becoming concerned over the possibility of over-vaccination, particularly with regard to annual boosters, a problem with potential negative outcomes of its own.

To address this issue, the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), in 2003 issued recommendations using available scientific evidence, as well as the clinical experience and expert opinions of a wide variety of animal health professionals. While not a protocol to be followed exclusively, these recommendations offer guidelines for veterinarians setting up individualized vaccination schedules for pets on a case-by-case basis.

New AAHA Recommendations

Basically, the AAHA recommends that vets follow all previous recommendations for puppy vaccinations, but to place vaccines for adult dog boosters into two categories: core (recommended) and noncore (optional).

Core vaccines would be administered every three years. (There is some evidence that suggests core diseases could be covered for 5 years or more with these vaccines, so three years was given as a compromise, a "better safe than sorry" approach). They cover the most severe and common illnesses.

1. Rabies 2. Canine parvovirus 3. Canine parainfluenza virus (in combination with other kennel cough- causing viruses) 4. Distemper

Noncore vaccines cover diseases which are not as common or severe, and may have at one time been given to most dogs, perhaps unnecessarily. The new guidelines suggest that noncore vaccines should be given on a case-by-case basis taking into consideration factors like the age and health of the dog, or his likely exposure to the infectious agent. For instance, you may not have to give a vaccine or boosters for Lyme Disease if your pet stays in your apartment and ventures out only for walks on concrete city sidewalks. Or, if ol’ Max is of advanced age, the risks of some vaccinations may outweigh the benefits. Under these recommendations dogs would receive appropriate noncore boosters annually.

Finally, the AAHA listed three vaccines that it feels should not be administered at all.

1. Giardia- the vaccine for this disease does not prevent infection

2. Canine adenovirus type 1(hepatitis)- the vaccine for this disease can cause visual impairment in dogs, and type 1 of this disease is covered with the type 2 vaccine, which is usually given in combination with the vaccine for parainfluenza.

3. Corona virus- according to the AAHA, corona virus does not commonly occur, and when seen is self-limiting.

Since these recommendations are not intended to be "set in stone", and since canine vaccination is obviously a nuanced issue (read: confusing and complex!), it is wise to discuss with your vet the rationale behind your dog’s vaccination schedule and follow his or her recommendations based on your dog, his health, and his environment.

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to:

If you simply want a companion consider a mixed breed. There is nothing a mix breed puppy cannot offer you in terms of love, companionship and devotion, and there are many mixed breed dogs already born, looking for homes.

When you discover you are in love with a particular breed, do some research to find out if the breed is compatible with your lifestyle. Pay special attention to breed characteristics, size, hair length, and amount of exercise required.

Talk to breed rescue centers. They will tell you what to look out for. No one has more experience on the breed as the dedicated volunteers and professionals who rescue the purebred dogs when they are no longer wanted. Learn how a typical dog of your beloved breed behaves and whether that is a fit for your lifestyle and your entire family.

Keep in mind how much room your dog will have, how much exercise you are able to handle daily, grooming needs, and how much maintenance they will require. Your rescue organization will also give you the “dumping factor” what the most common reason is for this breed being abandoned by their families.

Make sure everyone in your family is committed to interacting with the dog daily - the quality of life for your dog is based on healthy and constant social interaction. If your family cannot provide huge amounts of time, and if your dog is going to be home alone during the day, consider getting two dogs so that they can keep one another company. No matter what the breed, two dogs are no more trouble than one.

Make sure that you can guarantee a lifetime of dedication to your new dog.

To locate a dog, check out the pounds online. As many as 25% of the dogs in pounds ARE purebreds, and surprisingly there ARE puppies. To find a dog in a pound in your neighborhood, you can go online at http://www.Muttshack.org, type in your area code and look at the photos of dogs in the shelters near your home.

Next try the special breed rescue centers. They frequently rescue purebreds from the pounds because of their love and devotion to the breed. They may give you truly valuable advice about your new dog. If they don’t have one, consider waiting. It won’t take long!

If you can’t find your purebred puppy or dog already in need of a home, look for a breeder. You will need to find a reputable breeder to give you the best chance of a healthy dog with a sound temperament. Problems with irresponsible breeders range from purebreds that are inbred, causing litters that suffer from illnesses and congenital diseases to others guilty of "litter stuffing" - offering puppies from another mother, to be sold under the auspices of a "Champion" to get more money.

Visit their facilities and meet their dogs. Facilities should be clean. See how their dogs behave, and if that is the behavior you want from your dog. All dogs should be healthy, clean, and free of parasites. A good breeder will screen breeding stock for common health problems before breeding and will be happy to share that information with you. Tests should be done on the stud and the bitch. When you find a breeder you want, then wait for a litter. A good breeder will require a sales agreement that clearly spells out the obligations for everyone involved.

Get a complete veterinary exam within 24 hours of picking up your puppy. Make sure you have him micro-chipped, and get an ID tag.

Make sure every member of your family is equally well trained in handling the dog. Make sure every member of your family knows that dogs can nip and bite, when they are playful. (A nip is NOT an attack!) Kids need to learn to be around a dog as much as the dog learns how to listen to commands. Make sure your family are all ready to walk the dog, feed the dog, brush the dog, and pick up after the dog.

A bred dog becomes your personal responsibility.

If sometime in the future, you have to relocate to another home or apartment, you HAVE to find an apartment or home that allows dogs. If you cannot find such a home, or make a specific agreement with your new landlord, be a loving and responsible guardian and find your dog a new home too with another family. You are his only chance at life. Don’t drop him off at the pound. Since 56% of dogs including purebreds entering shelters are euthanized, your older dog, depressed with a broken heart will easily be overlooked. Shelter descriptions are cursory, and if your dog acts slightly defensively he will be marked “fractious” and be killed. You are the most qualified person to find your dog a new home. Go to MuttShack.org and learn where to advertise, and how to promote your dog.

People moving are the cause of the death of millions of dogs yearly when they are dumped at the pound like some disposable commodity as unwanted as old garden furniture.

If you made the choice to bring a dog into this world through your breeder, you should see it through to his dying day. Society is no longer finding it acceptable to have to take in a dog when the owner’s whim has passed him by. There are many more dogs than homes. Don’t think your dog (even a purebred) will be any more special than millions of other dogs that have to be euthanized every year.

Become a “Dog Person”. Fight for dogparks, dog friendly apartments, dog beaches, dog restaurants and dog safe shelters. Let your new puppy inspire you! Sharing your life with a dog is simply awesome!

Some good books to read are: “Man Meets Dog” by Donald McCraig, “Lost and Found” by Elizabeth Hess, “Disposable Animals” by Craig Brestrup, and “The Illustrated Veterinary Guide” by Pinney.

MuttShack Foundation for Animal Rescue and Animal Foster

About Muttshack: Muttshack Foundation is a 501((c)3) non-profit, a project of the National Heritage Foundation, established in 1968. MuttShack Foster and Animal Rescue promotes the education and creation of foster homes for abandoned and abused animals.

Muttshackers rescue animals from shelters, and from the streets, rehabilitate and nurture them to health in homes (MuttShacks) and find them quality, permanent new families.

By intervening and rescuing shelter animals about to be put to sleep, MuttShack fostering stops the senseless killing of healthy animals in overcrowded shelters. Donations Saves Lives.

Visit MuttShack Lifelines http://www.photochains.com/view/MuttShack_LifeLine_South_LA

Support Muttshack Animal Rescue. DONATE and we will rescue on your behalf! [https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=B47421FD] Donate by Paypal to payments at muttshack.org.

Bookmark to:

To start, you’ll have to get your doggy used to you fumbling around in his mouth. Ease him into it with a total-body pat-down; a chassis inspection that ideally should be performed on him each day. Have him sit while you examine his body to make sure everything is in working order and there aren’t any weird objects or critters lodged in unexpected places. Run your hands over his back and sides. Lift each paw and check the pads of his feet and between his toes. Gently lift his ears and peek inside. (If you see something peeking back at you, run away quickly!)

When you get to his mouth, approach with caution. Gently pull his lips back for a view of that magnificent gumline. Your dog’s teeth should be cushioned snugly by a set of pink gums. A healthy gumline is naturally bumpy… so if your dog’s gums appear straight rather than wavy, inflamed and/or cover most of the tooth surface, that’s a sign of trouble ahead. When WAS the last time you were in for a checkup?

If your dog is getting, well, long in the tooth, it’s probably a good idea to take him for a dental workup at the vet’s office before you officially start your daily dental hygiene routine at home. Either way, discuss dental hygiene with your vet before beginning a daily toothcare regimen.

Okay: it’s time to introduce your pal to “tooth brushing a la human.” You can purchase a dog toothbrush at your local Petsmart or other pet store. Try the traditional people-style brush with a handle, or if you’re sure you won’t lose a hand in his mouth, go for the rubber finger cap toothbrush that fits right over the tip of your index finger. Buy special dog toothpaste which comes in delightful flavors that appeal to dogs, like beef and chicken and the ever-popular cat flavor (joke). You can also brush his teeth with a salt water solution. Whatever you do… do NOT brush your dog’s teeth with people toothpaste. He can’t be taught to spit like a human, and people toothpaste is most definitely harmful if swallowed.

Offer your dog a little taste of the special dog toothpaste to get him used to it. Let him take a few licks and nibbles of the toothbrush. When he’s finished sampling the goods, nudge the brush into his mouth. Brush in circular motions along and under the gum line, paying extra attention to the upper molars in back. This is where plaque accumulates the most rapidly. Go from back to front, and be patient! This is a new and strange sensation for your dog, and he may even try to play a little tug of war with the toothbrush since you’re at the other end of it. Don’t expect a miracle the first time you try to brush your dog’s teeth. Next time should be a bit easier, and the time after that even moreso.

Train your dog to associate tooth-brushing with fun times. Talk to him and make it fun! When he’s all finished and showing off those freshly buffed fangs of his, give him a crunchy treat that also does double-duty as a plaque controller. Take him out for his daily walk. Tell him what a good boy he is! In time, he’ll grow to accept toothbrushing as just another pleasant ritual in his doggy day.

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to:

Roundworms are the most common type of worm, especially in unvaccinated puppies who may just be getting into that exploratory stage, which of course involves exploring other dogs’ feces. Regardless of your dog’s age, you’ll know he’s contracted roundworms if his stools look like spaghetti. Other signs include vomiting and diarrhea. If your dog displays any of these symptoms, bring him in to the vet’s office for a worm diagnosis and treatment. In the future, roundworms can be avoided with a worm preventative that your vet will recommend.

Hookworms find their way to your dog’s digestive tract through the pads of his feet and the skin of his belly. He can easily pick them up by way of infected soil. Once infected with hookworms, your dog will pass dark or bloody stools, an indication that the hookworms are sucking blood from his intestinal tract. If left untreated, hookworms cause anemia in your poor pooch, so bring him into the vet ASAP for a deworming and preventative against future hookworm episodes.

Tapeworms are passed through fecalmatter and flea larvae, and easily spread from dogs to humans through direct contact. They’re easily visible in your dog’s waste, so while it may seem a vile practice, take an extra long look at your dog’s poop every now and then to check for tapeworms. While they are harmless to your dog, tapeworms are hazardous to humans. If your dog has them, they should be treated promptly.

Heartworms can KILL your dog! They’re transmitted through mosquitoes and are lethal if left untreated. These parasites make their way to your dog’s heart, where the live and grow until heart functions are totally blocked, leading to heart failure and death. Symptoms of heartworms in your dog are coughing, labored breathing, weight loss and fainting. If you suspect heartworm, prevent your dog from exercising and get him to a vet immediately. Your dog’s doctor will determine what stage the disease has progressed to, and recommend treatment accordingly. If caught early, your dog may only require medicine injections and aspirin. If the disease is in advanced stages, he may require treatment for heart failure. It’s wise to protect your dog against heartworm with a routine vaccination, and as an added precaution, guard him against mosquitoes with an insect repellent recommended by your vet.

Check your dog regularly for any weird symptoms that could indicate a case of worms. Be sure to bring him in for vet checkups on a regular basis. Find out what precautionary steps you can take to prevent worms and other parasites. In this way, you’ll ensure him a happy and worm-free existence!

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to:

Fleas are tiny insects use their long, powerful legs to catapult onto your dog’s body, where they burrow into his fur, live off his blood, and raise families of thousands. Many dogs develop a sensitivity to flea saliva, which the flea injects into your dog’s skin as a way to prevent his blood from coagulating and thereby ensure a plentiful meal. If this is the case with your pup, you’ll see him scratch, scratch, scratching away.

Whether or not your dog has an allergy to fleas, they’re without a doubt an annoying pest that’s tough to eradicate. Once your dog has contracted fleas, they will quickly spread to any area where he is a frequent visitor- his bedding, his doghouse, your carpet and furniture, and possibly your clothing and bedding as well.

Fleas and Disease

The most common complication of fleas on your dog is tapeworms in his stool. Yes, it is foul, but as it is with parasites, one often hosts the other, and many a flea has been host to a tapeworm who then made his way into your dog’s intestinal tract. Just another great reason to keep those fleas off your dog. The other reason is anemia. Animals that thrive on your dog’s blood literally suck the life out of him… so if fleas have been preying upon your pooch, he may show signs of anemia, such as extreme fatigue. Get him to the vet for a thorough examination and inquire about what vitamins and supplements you can give to restore your dog back to a healthy, energetic state.

How to Tell if Your Dog Has Fleas

The most obvious sign of fleas on your dog is constant scratching and irritation of the skin. You may notice pink welts on his belly that eventually crust over; these are flea bites. Another way to check him for fleas is to have him stand on a few pieces of white paper while you comb through his fur. If you see little black flecks on the paper that look a lot like ground pepper, you’ve got yourself a flea situation. The little flecks are “flea dirt,” and when you moisten them with water they’ll turn dark red because they contain blood… the blood of your poor dog that those nasty fleas have been feasting on!

Flea Prevention

Ask your vet what methods he recommends to repel fleas. In the old days, most everyone put a flea collar and/or used flea powder on their dog. Some had their dogs “dipped” in a flea repellant bath. Today there are more sophisticated options in addition to the traditional methods… some of which are all-natural and environmentally friendly, and others which are chemical-based and afford extended protection with minimal application.

IGRs (insect growth regulators) kill flea eggs and flea larvae, and are available in both collar and spray form as well as oral medication. Sentinel® is one product that does double duty as both a flea repellant and heartworm protection, and only requires one application per month.

Adulticides kill the actual flea and can be purchased as both spot-on and oral products. Frontline® is one brand that is applied to your dog’s shoulder blade area, where it is absorbed and distributed throughout his system. When fleas come in contact with his skin that’s been treated with Frontline® or a similar insecticide, they die instantly.

Flea Control in Your Home

Hopefully, you’ll take the proper precautions to keep fleas at bay, so you’ll never know the unpleasantness of a flea-ridden home. But if you do happen to find fleas, you’ll need to act quickly to avoid infestation. First and foremost, give your vet a call and ask him the best method of de-flea-ing your dog and your home. Treat your carpets, furniture, dog bed, and areas outside your home where your dog is frequently found, with an approved flea treatment. Thoroughly vacuum every inch of carpet, and your mattresses if you think there may be a problem there as well. And don’t forget to apply flea repellant to the inside of your vacuum! Although it does a great job of sucking up those creepy little creatures, your warm and cozy vaccuum serves as the perfect flea-breeding incubator, which can mean reinfestation later.

No one wants to spray or bomb their home with harmful pesticides, but if you don’t take preventive measures against fleas on your dog, that’s pretty much your only option to be rid of them. So do yourself a favor and get a flea repellent for that pup of yours!

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to:

Your dog probably won’t need much work done on his teeth when he’s still young… so your vet won’t do much more than open his mouth and take a look at what’s going on in there. But as he ages, dental disease can set in, especially if you don’t brush his teeth (which you should be). So check him periodically for signs of mouth/tooth decay, bleeding gums, or abscesses. If you see or smell anything unusual, he’ll need to go in for a cleaning and polishing, or “prophy,” which is vetspeak for prophylaxis.

Unfortunately, “spit,” “rinse”, and “open wide” are not part of your dog’s limited vocabulary, and that spit sucker thing is likely to terrify him… so, for everyone’s convenience and peace of mind, your veterinarian will anesthetize your dog before doing any complicated procedures on his teeth.

Anesthesia is not without risks; therefore, your vet will require several precautionary tests before putting your dog under. This may seem rather tedious to you; but if you want to prolong your dog’s life, you really should be taking care of his teeth. This may mean a few dental cleanings in his older years which DO require anesthesia to be conducted properly and safely. The good news is, the more you practice regular brushing and plaque control in the form of crunchy bones and such, the less cleanings and dental work your dog will require… so hopefully you can keep those vet bills down.

Expect the vet to perform the following precautionary tests to determine if anesthesia is a safe option.

- Basic blood tests including red and white blood cell count - Kidney and liver evaulation - Possibly a heart function test, if your vet detects a heart murmur - Possibly a urinalysis if there is reason to suspect kidney disease

The above testing will require one or possibly more trips to the vet, as well as several days of waiting time before the lab results come back. Just like your family doctor, your dog’s vet wants to give you as thorough an evaluation as possible so he can determine the correct diagnosis and proper and complete treatment for your dog’s teeth and for his health in general.

Assuming your dog passes his health exam and lab testing with flying colors, your next scheduled appointment will be for the cleaning and dental work itself. Time to tackle that tartar!

The dental procedure may involve some if not all of the following:

- Anesthetic administration - X-rays - General examination - Tooth extractions - Tartar removal - Polishing

The procedure may be as brief as 20 minutes, if your dog has mostly healthy teeth, but may take an hour or longer for more extensive work in the case of diseased teeth and other problems. If your vet detects slow recovery from the anesthesia, he may require an overnight stay. Your vet should keep you informed every step of the way during your dog’s dental procedure, and alert you to any unexpected outcomes.

You generally won’t be expected to provide any special care after you take your pet home from his dental appointment, unless of course your dog has had major surgery and/or tooth extractions. In such a case, he may require the feeding of softer food or administering of antibiotics for a little while. Your dog’s vet will inform you of what if any additional care if any is needed, and whether or not your pup will require a follow-up exam.

Start taking care of your dog’s teeth now, and you won’t have to worry about costly extensive dental treatments down the road. A brief recap of how you can help:

- Get into the habit of regularly brushing your dog’s teeth while they’re still in good condition.

- Feed him hard, crunchy food and special snacks that will aid in plaque removal.

- Examine his mouth regularly for signs of tooth problems or dental disease- redness, swelling, abnormal gumline, difficulty chewing.

- Take your pup in for regular dental checkups and cleanings; typically, once a year if he’s young, and bi-annually if he’s a senior dog.

- Make sure that any dental problems are treated promptly by a certified veterinarian.

In short: take care of your dog’s teeth, and ensure him a long and healthy life!

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to:

Here are a few of the most common distressing, even fatal illnesses you can prevent with some timely injections:

Canine parvovirus:

This is a viral disease which is highly contagious and can cause severe diarrhea and vomiting. Puppies are especially at risk, and if contracted, parvovirus can kill a pup in just two to three days after the onset of symptoms.

Rabies:

This disease is NO JOKE! It is caused by a virus that attacks the brain, and it is always FATAL. That means, once symptoms are displayed, there’s no cure, so that ounce of prevention is all you’ve got! It is spread to animals and humans by bites from infected animals. Vaccination against rabies is required for dogs by law.

Canine distemper:

Along with parvovirus, canine distemper is the leading killer of puppies. It is a highly contagious viral disease spread through direct or indirect contact with nose and eye discharge of infected dogs. Symptoms resemble a bad cold progressing to vomiting and diarrhea, and muscle twitching and seizures.

Lyme Disease:

Also called Borreliosis, this bacterial infection is primarily spread by carrier tick bites. A dog with Lyme disease will display symptoms like fever, lethargy, depression, muscle stiffness and lack of appetite. The infection can lead to lameness due to severe muscle and/or joint pain.

Canine Adenovirus Type 2, Parainfluenza, and Bordetella:

This "complex" of viral and bacterial infections is responsible for "kennel cough" in dogs. Symptoms include a dry, hacking cough and runny nose and eyes.

So, it’s pretty clear, given what’s out there, that vaccinations to prevent certain illnesses are a good thing. Be sure to discuss with your vet the rationale behind your dog’s vaccination schedule and follow his or her recommendations based on your dog, his health, and his environment.

Copyright 2005 Dina Giolitto. All rights reserved.

Dina Giolitto is a copywriting consultant and ghostwriter with 10 years of experience writing corporate print materials and web content. Trust her with your next e-book, article series or web project, and make a lasting impression on your audience of information-hungry prospects. Visit http://www.wordfeeder.com for more information.

Bookmark to: